Thursday, July 9, 2015


Kenneth Watrous is my name. All the opinions here are mine. They also apply only to the places I have tried in Las Vegas.

Last month, we went to The Boiling Crab This month, I tried Herringbone.  

At the top end of the spectrum is Herringbone. The invention of Chef Brian Malarkey, who hails from southern California, is this top of the line restaurant. The Las Vegas location is the third, with the other two being in California. This is the kind of place you go once or twice on special occasions because it takes reservations and it is pricey. But it earns what it charges through excellent service and more than a touch of class without feeling like it is shoving it in your face. The d├ęcor is not just elegant but also has this feel like it is a real seaside resort. A cabana like canopy for the balcony and a lot of white and cream colors. The staff are excellent as well, well spoken people who know the menu and are fun to talk with about the dishes and the art of seafood. These are people that can really go into some detail about why certain flavors have moved from one region to another and why so many pairings of sides work with fish from so many places.
Which brings us to the ‘ands’ section of the menu. This is where the different side dishes are listed and are a total mix and match. The menu is broken into simple sections of single options. This isn’t a place where you order a meal in one pointing of the menu, you build the stuff up from each section and customize so much. That is why having knowledgeable wait staff and some dedicated taste preferences are good things. And with the cost, it I pays to know what you want so you can get what you want. Options like the roasted mushrooms show a certain Greek sentiment for seafood while the ‘death by potatoes’ are a northern Italian touch.

Not everything is just seafood. There are a variety of more land based eats on the ‘land’ section of the menu. Like I’ve said in other reviews, I don’t go to seafood palces for not seafood, but I have to admit I’ve struggled to avoid ordering the rib-eye more than once. It is dry aged and features an aged balsamic sauce that sounds like the best piece of meat you might ever experience. As for the rest of the menu, it is divided between the ‘ocean’ section and the ‘hot fare’ and ‘cold fare’. Each has some great things to offer and it comes down to what I’m feeling at the time. I like it all, so choosing can be difficult. The Yellowtail is amazing with the fruit and spicy finishes. In the hot fare the mussels and clams can be messy to eat, but very satisfying.
The experience of a place like this can’t be overdone. Between the reservation system and the open dining area, the feeling is impressive. If you want a night where you feel like a captain of industry, this is the place to go. Everything is ocean to table with less than a 24 hour time table. Early evening it is possible to order food that was in the pacific less than a few hours before. And the taste is there, nothing diluted, nothing dry or processed.

The next anniversary or birthday you have, book a table and be excited. Be warned, if you treat yourself to something this fine you might get hooked and want to do it again and again. Just watch the wallet and keep your head about you and it could be the best night you’ve ever had.

-Kenneth Watrous Find more about me on or follow me on twitter at @KennethWatrous